The People of Gibraltar: 2014

1829 - Romaine Amiel - Dirt's-depôts

Mr Woodward and Dr Hennen - General George Don and Mr Martin
Hugh Frazer and Dr Gilpin - Dr Gardiner and Dr Burnett
Raphael Nahon and Jacinto Reys - Andrew Reys and Joseph Reys
Santiago and Francisco Prospero - Dr Grey and Staff-Surgeon Glasse

The 1831 publication of the Edinburgh Medical and Surgical Journal carried an article in which Romaine Amiel, the Surgeon of the 12th Regiment and a resident for many years in Gibraltar answered questions put to him by the Army Medical Board. They referred to the 1828 yellow fever epidemic at Gibraltar. (See LINK)

Gibraltar from the Neutral Ground showing "fever houses" ( probably late 19th century - Unknown)

Quite apart from Amiel's interesting comments as regards of his thoughts on the origin and progression of the epidemic, he also offers a source of historically interesting material on what Gibraltar was like in the early 19th century - especially in so far as public hygiene was concerned. The following are selected quotes from the Journal with comments where appropriate.

Query - What was the civil and military population of the garrison during these years, I827 and 1828?

Answer - I believe the civil population of Gibraltar might have been computed at 18,000 during the years 1827 and 1828, and the military at about 5000, including the women and children. The census taken in 1826 carried the civil population to 15,480, and the one taken in January 1829, at the close of the late epidemic, to 15,470.

Query - How were the garrison and inhabitants supplied with provisions in each year, plentifully or scantily?

Answer -The provisions have generally been abundant during these two years, and cheaper than at former periods. The troops were constantly supplied with wholesome food and with fresh meat three or four times in the week.

Query - Was there any deficiency of water during these years, in the wells or tanks? Report on the state of the tanks.

Answer - Water was formerly an article scarce and expensive in this garrison. But since 1814, every house which has been built has had a tank constructed in it. The number of these tanks, which now amount to about 250 or 300, affords a supply of tolerably good water; and we had rain enough during the two above-mentioned years to have prevented a deficiency in this respect; but the poorer classes have seldom access to those tanks, and must purchase water obtained from wells in the garrison, or on the Neutral Ground, which, at the latter part of the summer, is frequently thick and muddy, and at all times rather brackish.

Water collecting tanks and donkey carrying water in barrels for those without - the local custom was to put an eel inside the tank to eat whatever fell or grew in it. It was supposed to keep the water clean ( Early 20th century - Unknown )

Query - What was the state of the public sewers, and was any marked difference observed in the cleanliness or filth of the streets, houses, etc? Report at large on this subject.

Answer - l am not sufficiently acquainted with the construction and state of the public sewers in general, to submit correct and satisfactory remarks on this subject; but on referring to an official statement of Mr Woodward’s, surveyor of the Revenue Works, I find that the drains in the lower part of the town have but little declivity, and receive the soil and other filth from those in the upper part, into which the privies of the several houses discharge their contents.

The consequence is that either by direct winds from the west, or eddy winds from the east, the foul air is blown up from the line wall; and in hot weather, the streets and houses are filled with air so offensive and fetid, as frequently to make the people sick. The whole surface of the drains is covered with night soil, which, from the want of water to clean them, becomes in the warm weather an expanded ridge of rotten matter near the surface of the ground; and the offensive effluvia, disseminated over the whole place, cannot have escaped even superficial observation.

During the late epidemic the air was particularly offensive, and great numbers of rats were found dead in the drains. At their outlets on the line-wall, and in many places where Mr W. had occasion to direct their opening, he always noticed that they contained a great deal of filth, particularly at the lower part of the town.

It appears that, previous to the year 1814 there were very few drains in Gibraltar; and, for want of them, large accumulations of filth called Dirt's-depôts were established in various parts of the town. In 1815, the reconstruction of the drains took place, and, since that time, they have been continued at various periods up the hill-side; and the gullies have been covered, which undoubtedly is an improvement in the state of the drains.

In rainy weather, they have sufficient declivity to be cleared of their contents; but this cannot be the case in dry weather. In I828, the drains were much filled with filth, and it may be remembered that there was in the month of July some rain. On the 1st of August heavy showers fell . . . there was more rain, which brought the con- tents into action, so that the effluvia arising from them were very like those arising from the dirt deposits in 1814.

As to the state of the drains more particularly belonging to the barracks occupied by the 12th regiment, with the condition of which it has been my duty to make myself acquainted, I can state, that, both in the town-range and King's Bastion, they appear to have been, and continue to be defective. In the lower square of the town range, the drain from the soil-pit was choked up, and burst open a short time before the regiment was sent to camp: and, in the King's Bastion, the sewers at the north and south, probably from a want of sufficient declivity, frequently allow the corrupt substances to accumulate at their entrances, and emit during the summer months exhalations highly offensive, which, in several instances, have been complained of by the men, and reported to the authorities.

King's Bastion ( 1844 - George Lothian Hall ) (See LINK)

The drains about the south end of the building, where the Regimental Hospital is established, are likewise in a very defective state. They have been frequently choked up; and their opening in the kitchen, and in the centre of a very small yard, forms a permanent source of disagreeable, and, I may venture to say, pernicious exhalations.

In illustration of this it may be remarked, that the first hospital servant taken ill during the late epidemic was the cook of the establishment who slept in that kitchen, and the disease has been very severe amongst those who have been successively employed on the same duty. With respect to the cleanliness or filth in the streets or houses, I have not observed any particular difference between this and the preceding years.

In other words the place was as dirty as ever - this despite the creation of the Paving and Scavenger Committee and the much vaunted drainage system set up by General George Don. (See LINK) For the definitive description of Gibraltar's infamous Dirt's-depôts read Robert Montgomery Martin's British Colonial Library. (See LINK) The next few questions - which I have omitted - were about comparisons between the fever in the West Indies and Gibraltar.

Query - When and where, (i. e.) in what street or house, did you first observe the epidemic at Gibraltar; and was its progress clearly traced from any one point?

Answer - The first patient of the late epidemic, whom I personally saw, was a lance-sergeant (of Company No. I.) quartered at the King's Bastion. He was admitted into the Twelfth Hospital on the 2d September, and died on the 5th. But, from what I have been able to learn, the first cases of this fever had appeared about the latter end of August, in District No. 24; and this information is completely borne out by the official communication of the late Dr Hennen to his Excellency the Lieutenant-Governor dated 29th August 1828, an extract of which I take the liberty to subjoin:-

The "Lieutenant-Governor" was George Don. (See LINK)

"I have the honour to state for your Excellency's information that, within the present week I have personally visited . . . five cases . . . which has made its appearance in a neighbourhood at the back of Hargrave’s Parade . .. Independent of these cases, which occurred amongst the poorer class of inhabitants, three or four of the family of Mr Martin, chief-clerk in the Civil Secretary's Office, have been attended in a similar disease by Mr Hugh Frazer, surgeon of the Civil Hospital; and it is not a little remarkable, that the fatal case seen by me occurred in a woman who was a servant of Mr Martin."

Hargrave's Parade ( 19th century - Unknown )

Query - Who were the first attacked with epidemic, consistent with your own knowledge, as separated from general report? Were they soldiers, sailors, inhabitants, as merchants or their families, or Jews, Moors, Spanish, or other foreigners . . . The period when the person had resided on the Rock should be noticed; and if recently arrived from another station, that should be noticed, and its healthiness adverted to?

Answer-As far as I could ascertain, the first cases of the late epidemic occurred in individuals of the lower class, residing in District, No. 24. My first patient . . was a lance-serjeant, who had been four years and a-half in the garrison, and who . . .had been disorderly, and in a state of intoxication, two days previous to his admission into the Hospital.

District 24

. . . in 1818, the neighbourhood of Boyd’s-Buildings was, as in 1804 (see LINK) the first spot on -which the disease made its appearance in Gibraltar; and, as early as the 6th of July, a highly suspicious case of fever, which proved rapidly fatal, was met in the person of a ferryman, who lived in that unfortunate situation; but it was on the 10th of September that Dr Gilpin, the principal medical officer, reported officially to the Board of Health, that cases of fever of a very serious type had, within a few days, become prevalent in town, and that masons, porters, bakers, and people exposed to hard labour, had been principally attacked.

In a footnote the editor describes Boyd's Buildings that as "a covered space of 29,200 superficial feet, and stood about 200 feet above the level of the sea, in the central part of the town, on a ground which appears originally to have been washed from the mountain down two gullies, at the bottom of which they were situated, and the streams of which they obstructed in the rain. These buildings were formally subdivided into small dirty, and ill-ventilated tenements, into which individuals of the lower class were generally crowded to an excess, and were considered for a long time as the filthiest spot in Gibraltar. They have since been replaced by roomy and commodious houses, perhaps the best built in the whole garrison."

Boyd's Building was at the corner of Governor's Street and Library Ramp - just next dooor to the Garrison Library ( See LINK)

The first case of black vomit which I personally observed during that season occurred about the beginning of September, in a gardener who lived at the south end of the South Barracks. He was a Genoese, and had for some time resided in Gibraltar. In 1814 the cases which first alarmed the garrison occurred about the 18th of August on the hill side, at Cavallero’s Buildings, situate close to Arengo‘s-Gully, (see LINKJ) and at the top of the central part of the town.

These buildings competed at the time with Boyd's for want of cleanliness. They were inhabited by about 300 Portuguese of the lower order, and, close to them, there was an accumulation of filth, (one of the dirt's deposits . . . ) which emitted a very offensive stench, and attracted an incredible swarm of flies, which, infecting the whole neigbourhood, became at the time the subject of general observation and surprise.

I may assert, indeed, without fear of the correctness of the assertion being questioned, that, whenever the epidemic has appeared in Gibraltar, it has always commenced in the filthiest spot, among the lower and more disorderly class of inhabitants; and that this was the case in the late visitation . . .

The final eighteen pages are given over to as discussion as to the origins of the disease and its symptoms, and treatment and who seemed to have been more or less likely to have suffered from it. Amiel also answered questions on the effects of the same epidemic on the populations of nearby Spanish towns. Although Amiel belonged to that species of medical men of the day who did not believe the disease to be contagious it is hard to tell what it was that he thought caused it. Local filth was certainly high on his agenda but I think he suspected that this was not the real cause. During the remainder of this article I will restrict myself to quoting any of his answers which specifically mention a named individual.

. . . Dr Gardiner, surgeon to the Naval Hospital, and member of the Board of Health established in this garrison in I813, said, in a communication to Dr Burnett, then Physician to the Fleet, “ That the disease did not spread from any focus, but broke out in fifty different places at once." . . .

Raphael Nahon . . . he had taken refuge on the Neutral Ground . . . in a shed with his family (seventeen in number) and died there on the 2nd of November . .

An overcrowded Neutral Ground with temporary civilian village and camps for soldiers and wives (1830's - Piaget et Lailavoix )

I was at that time desired now and then to visit some inhabitants labouring under a fever presenting the same symptoms; especially in the neighbourhood of Scud-Hill. On the 20th October, I was called to see Jacinto Reys, a carpenter in the dock-yard, attacked with fever. He had been working three or four days on board the San Juan, lying in the Mole, where he was taken ill. . . .

On the 22d of October, Andrew Reys, an elder brother of the patient, who lived in a neighbouring house, and had been in the habit of visiting him frequently, was taken ill with the same leading symptoms; and in the course of three days, the mother, the grandmother, a child, and a person who lived on the same floor, were taken ill of a fever resenting the same symptoms as Jacinto Reys.

Andrew Reys died of that fever on the 26th of October; the rest of the family were sent to perform quarantine on the Neutral Ground, and sentries were placed around the houses they had left, to prevent any intercourse of the inhabitants, with that spot. . . . A younger brother, however, named Joseph Reys, fourteen years old, who had been very healthy on the Neutral Ground, was, three days after returning to his house, seized with a fever which presented the same symptoms as his brothers, but in a more aggravated form. On the third day a vomiting of a black matter came on, and he died on the fourth day . . .

. . . the circumstance of two Genoese, Santiago and Francisco Prospero, having been taken ill in the neighbourhood, and on the same day . . . without having had any communication with the Reys’s family, disproved such assertion; and considering that the small district where those fevers broke out was then so filthy, crowded, and unventilated, as to have induced the Lieutenant-Governor to order nine sheds to be removed from a space of ground not exceeding 3000 superficial feet, it appears highly probable, that the disease had originated in that spot, from local and domestic causes.

A housing survey in 1816 found that there were only 48 houses in the South and that the sewers and drainage in the area were in a dreadful condition. Ironically the opening of the Alameda Gardens in 1816 and the fact that on the whole this part of Gibraltar was much less overcrowded than the town itself led most visitors to think of it as a rather attractive - even romantic place.

The romantic view - South Barracks on the far left, the South Mole on the right and not a drain in sight (1825 - John Varley )

. . . at the commencement of September, two gardeners died in the south, one opposite Cooper's Buildings, and the other near the South Barracks . . .

Dr Grey, physician to the Mediterranean Fleet, and for some years to the Naval Hospital in this garrison, after having stated, in a report to the Transport Board, that the bilious remittent fever is more or less endemic in Gibraltar during the summer and autumnal months . . .

Staff-Surgeon Glasse, whose veracity is so well known in this garrison, where he had resided ten years, says in a document which has been published, “During the autumn, I have been in the habit of solitary cases of fever attended with black vomiting and other severe symptoms." . . .

Amiel ends his question and answer ordeal - which took place in Gibraltar on the 24th February 1839 - as follows.

. . . it is a disease of an endemial character, produced by local causes . . .This character of the disease, founded on the evidence of facts, leads to the inference, that cordons of troops, or any sanitary measures which tend to keep the population within an infected district, will only aggravate the evil, and be attended with that fear and consternation so fatal in every epidemic; and that the progress of the disease may only be effectually checked by restoring, if possible, the healthfulness of the locality, and at any rate, by a speedy removal from the source of sickliness.

It would take more than half a century to find out exactly what the problem was.

Generally the most notable aspect of this question and answer session is the reluctance of either the interrogator or the interrogated to blame the British administration for anything. One can accept that the real cause of the disease - or at any rate its vector, the Aedes aegypti mosquito, was unknown and that even if it had been known it would have been difficult to do anything about it at the time. What is less acceptable is that almost everybody with any medical authority - whether they subscribed to contagious or the non-contagious theories - were all convinced that the generalised filth found in the Garrison at the time had something to do with it and that this was entirely the fault of the poorer members of the civilian population.

No blame whatsoever was apportioned to those British administrators who should have done something about it but did not - including General Don who was and still is considered as the one of the best Governor Gibraltar has ever had - This type of Pontius Pilate washing of hands is not unique to Amiel - rather it permeates just about the entire literature of the day.

1829 - James Williamson - The Black Boy

Mr Quentin Brown from Ayr and Mr Walker from Dunbar - Mr Michael Power
George Don and George Augustus Eliott - Giovanni Maria Boschetti
Aaron Cardozo and the Duke of Connaught

James Williamson was a Scottish surgeon employed by the owners of the ships of the Falmouth Packet Ship Service between 1828 and 1835. He kept diaries during his voyages which have been meticulously transcribed by Tony Pawlyn, the Head of Research at the Bartlett Library of the National Maritime Museum of Cornwall. The quotes below - those which refer to his several visits to Gibraltar - are taken - with thanks - from his transcriptions.

The Packet ship Walsingham - perhaps not unlike James Williamson's ship which was the Duke of York
( 1823 - Nicholas Cammilleri )

First Visit - January 1829

Arrival . . . at 6 o'clock this morning we came to anchor in the Bay of Gibraltar, having performed the passage from Cadiz in a very short time. . . I got up at 7 o'clock, and had a prospect of the celebrated Bay, and the no less celebrated Town, of Gibraltar.

The whole Bay which if not of very great extent is barred in by several chains of lofty mountains except a small portion, to the North of the Rock, which is low, flat, and narrowing all the way up to the Hill, which rises suddenly up to a very considerable height. Part of this level tract is called the neutral ground, and on it were encamped those who had quitted the Town in consequence of the fever – the soldiers in one quarter of it, and the inhabitants in another.

I went on shore with Mr Geach, who carried the mail. We found that a solid wall of masonry ran along in front of the Town, with short intervals in the continuity of it, for the reception of cannons. At the different places of landing, which are very few cannons were planted so as to have the complete command of them, and to sweep the whole extent.

Within the outer wall was another equally strong and well mounted separated from the first by a wide ditch and communicating only by means of a draw-bridge. We landed at a long projecting fortification, or mole, called the 'devils tongue', from the dreadful execution which the cannon mounted thereon committed among the enemy. Here we found a great number of Spaniards and others, in various dresses, all patiently waiting until they should be allowed to enter. Amongst these, we were obliged to remain for some time, as we could not be allowed to pass, without a special permission to that effect . . . .

Fever - I believe we were, the first, who were allowed to enter the Town – and to receive clean Bill of health since the cessation of the fever. Yesterday, (Friday 16th January) the churches were opened for the 1st time for public worship – the troops were marched into the town – Te Deum was sung. The vessels also in the harbour hoisted their colours in token of joy, and this destructive fever which had raged so long among a crowded population has ultimately ceased after having gorged about 1628 victims.

The last fever here in 1813-14 destroyed 5500 persons, and the present diminished mortality is attributed to the attention paid to cleanliness - ventilation - fumigations, and the separation of the healthy from the diseased. It is now thought that the result of this fever, which seems to have resembled the yellow Fever of the West Indies will set at rest the great question so long agitated by medical men of all countries, as to whether this and other fevers are contagious or non-contagious.

The number of people who died of yellow fever in Gibraltar from the first epidemic in 1804 to the last one which ended in December 1828 is unknown but probably ran to over 10 000. Williamson's figure of 5500 for the epidemics of 1813 and 1814 seems to be on the high side. (See LINK)

Houses - Altho’ it has been announced that the fever had ceased, we had to wait until permission had been obtained to enter the Town, which we did thro’ two thick and solid gateways (see LINK) at a little distance from each other, armed with strong iron doors and guarded by soldiers. We first found ourselves in a large open place surrounded by bomb-proof barracks of a very handsome appearance.

The 'solid gateways' were the Casemates Gates and the large open space the Casemates themselves.

Market and Casemates Gates ( Late 19th century - William Lee Hankey )

From this place the streets and alleys diverged off in different directions. I visited several parts of the Town, and liked it very much. The architecture of the houses is of a mixed character being partly English and partly Spanish – Few or none of the windows had balconies but almost all had a sort of Venetian blind outside, precisely similar to those which I used to look at with great curiosity when they were first put up in some windows in the Westmost part of Princes Street. If they are still there, you will have a complete idea of the appearance of the windows at Gibraltar.

The person responsible for those ubiquitous venetian blinds - perhaps better described as wooden Genoese shutters - was Giovanni Maria Boschetti a Gibraltarian architect of Italian descent. (See LINK)

Castle road showing traditional Gibraltarian wooden shutters ( Mansell Collection )
(See LINK)

Buildings - I saw few large or public buildings, & those few were very good such as the Governor’s residence - the neat Catholic Church - and the exchange. (see LINK) I can say little alas of the Shops, very many of which were still unopened.

He left out another two - The Mount which was the Admiral's residence, and A large mansion in the Commercial Square owned Aaron Cardozo (see LINK) a very rich Jewish merchant. When this photograph was taken in the late 19th century it was known as Connaught House. The owner - Pablo Larios (see LINK) - had placed it at the disposal of the Duke of Connaught, son of Queen Victoria, during his tour of duty in Gibraltar.

The Convent ( 1879 - Unknown )

Spanish Barber - Along with Mr Geach, I entered that of a Spanish Barber, the interior of which differed considerably from those of their fraternity in England. A thousand razors were arranged in regular order around the walls, from which also were suspended basins of China or beautifully polished metal, with a notch in the side of each for the reception of the chin. In the rooms or shop were several odd fashioned chairs - and sundry elegant pictures and mirrors, nearly completed the catalogue of the contents.

Inhabitants - The inhabitants of Gibraltar are composed of the most heterogeneous and mixed assemblage of people of all nations, which you can fancy. Here you may see the Stately Turk, the Swarthy Moor - the grave Spaniard, the lively Frenchman - the cunning Italian - the heavy, gin-swilling Dutchman – the Jew and gentle (sic) - Christian & Mahometan. But by far the greatest bulk of the dwellers in Gibraltar - consist of Genoese, Englishmen, Scotchmen, and Spaniards - and the Spanish language is as much spoken as the English.

( Mid 19th century - M.C. Perry ) (See LINK)

Very few visitors to Gibraltar ever made a distinction between that 'mixed assemblage of people of all nations' that seemed to have been immediately obvious when first entering the town, and distinguishing them from vast majority of the residents of the Rock which were indeed mostly of Genoese, Spanish and English. His inclusion of Scotsmen is understandable given his own nationality. He makes up elsewhere for not mentioning the Jews.

Soldiers - Another peculiarity here is, that everywhere in all corners, you meet with soldiers, as indeed might have been expected, when we consider the necessity of always securely guarding a place of so much importance. At present there are 6 regiments in garrison, amongst whom I was delighted to recognise my brave countrymen, the 42 Highlanders. These poor fellows along with their other comrades have suffered severely from the fever, having most of the stoutest and ablest men of their corps.

( Mid 19th century - M.C. Perry )

It was however, expected that the full complement of each regiment would soon be made up as there were reinforcements sent from England, lying now in the Bay. It says much for our military countrymen that an excellent understanding subsists between them and the inhabitants, whose good will and good wishes they seem entirely to have gained.

The strictest discipline is enforced, and many regulations have been made calculated to remove out of their way those temptations which so often divert the British soldier to the neglect of discipline and the commission of crime – I mean those presented by the too easy procuring of Spirits, and the too free indulgence in their intoxicating delights.

Women - In Gibraltar the mixture of females is as peculiar as that of the males - and here the English and Spanish predominate. Nor is it difficult to distinguish between them - for the former wear bonnets, as at home, while the heads of the latter are covered simply with a black veil often of the most costly material. I observed also that here many of those women of the lower orders, wore very generally a scarlet coloured cloak, with a hood for the head, and trimmed all along with a broad edging of black velvet.

Woman wearing the traditional local scarlet cloak. The couple are standing some distance from South Barracks (see LINK) - another of Gibraltar's more imposing buildings (1844 - George Lothian Hall ) (See LINK)

Barbary Jews - As I passed along the Street, I mistook several men, who were standing on the Street for women, and it was only when I saw their dark faces, and bearded chins that I discovered my mistake. These were Barbary Jews, who [wore] a sort of wide gown, generally of a brown colour, and loose white Trousers.

In the head, they appear to entertain notions of propriety and beauty the reverse of our – for their hair was shaved off and their beards permitted to grow. They wore no hats, - but a wide sort of night cap, made of some black stuff. Their legs were almost universally bare, and their feet pushed into old shoes. The only part of their dress, in which they affected any kind of attention, was a kind of waistcoat, with numerous buttons and much braiding. These perhaps were their Sabbath clothes, as I discovered them, when they had just come out of the Synagogue. . .

( Mid 19th century - M.C. Perry )

Public Walks - We traversed several streets now familiar to us and at last came to the public walks and gardens at the South End of the rock - With these we were quite delighted on account of their pleasantness and beauty. They are very tastefully laid out, and an attempt has been made to combine and appearance of the waywardness of nature with the strictness of art. Almost all the plants, flowers, and trees were unknown to me - several emitted a most delicate fragrance, and lovely flowers of varied hues glanced now and then, from their concealment among the green leaves.

At two different stations of these gardens were built elegant green summer houses, with excellent seats. To these the public had free access, without let or molestation - and they were so placed as to afford several fine views of the surrounding scenery.

Near to them were mounted sentinels who patrolled backwards & forwards to prevent depredations and the wanton spoliation of mischievous vagrants - and hitherto this attention has not failed to produce the desired effect, as I observed, that everything was in the highest order and state of preservation. In to conduct you from one part of the garden to another, over hollows, and precipices, rustic bridges were formed, which, in my opinion heightened the enchantment of the scene.

The Alameda Gardens as described by James Williamson had only recently been created by General Don, Governor of Gibraltar at the time of his short visit. (See LINK)

Lovers Walk in the Alameda Gardens ( 1865 - Gustave de Jonge )

The last ornaments of these walks, if ornaments they may be called, were two statues, the one of the governor of the Rock during the siege, and the other of Neptune, piercing a dolphin with his trident. They are both of colossal size, and of no great merit, as to the talent displayed. The former was made from the mainmast of the Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar, and the other from the wood of the “San Juan,” the ship I believe of the Spanish Admiral.

The 'governor of the Rock during the siege' was George Augustus Eliott'. (See LINK) This eyesore was eventually removed and when last I heard of it had been carted off to the cloister of the Convent - the Governor's house in Gibraltar. It was replaced by a bronze bust. As regards the statue of Neptune, the only other reference to it that I can find is in Amasa Hewin's A Boston Portrait-painter visits Italy. (See LINK)

Wooden statue of General Eliott in the Alameda Gardens (1846 - J.M.Carter ) ( see LINK )

Near to these is a column of marble surmounted with a bust of the Duke of Wellington, with an inscription commemorating his victories in Spain, and announcing that these had been put up in token of gratitude for having freed that country from her worst enemies.

Bust of Wellington in the Alameda Gardens ( Late 19th century - Edward Angelo Goodall )

These public walks and gardens, the pleasant resort of the inhabitants, and one of the greatest ornaments of the Hill, were begun and completed by the proceeds of lotteries (see LINK) - and, if lotteries are ever to be excused it is where they are conducive, as in this case, to the public pleasure, and advantage. These grounds, on which they are laid out was formerly a burial ground - and the tomb stones are still to be seen amid the umbrageous trees & plants, reminding in a striking manner that in the midst of pleasure there is death. . .

St. Michael’s Cave - On our way to the top, we paid a visit to a cave, called S.t Michael’s cave, which is deemed a curiosity. The entrance to it is of considerable width - and the interior present one of the numerous vagaries of dame nature, who disdains to observe the methodical rules of the Schools. Nearly in the centre is a sizeable pillar, from the roof to the floor, and beautifully cut into fantastic shapes, in glorious confusion.

The sides of this Chapel, as it were, were also of the same Grotesque & irregular architecture of nature - and the Rock might here have free scope to his imagination in endeavouring to form into significance & shape, the incongruous groupings, which every where met his eye. - and the Architect, be he ever so skilful would have found himself baffled in the attempt to assign to each part the various orders of Architecture.

From the outer excavation, several others branched off, I am told to a great extent, but as we had not expected to meet with such a curiosity, we had come unprovided with torches, and a guide.

St Michael's Cave ( 1830s - Arnout )

Signal Station - Delighted as we were with seeing what we had so little expected, we proceeded the remainder of our way to the Signal Station on one of the summit’s of the Rock, with renewed alacrity - and when arrived there, we had a wide extended prospect of the mountains of Spain, and Barbary, and of the Mediterranean Sea, which lay stretched far below us, like a mirror of molten silver. What a pleasure it was to me, to stand in such a position, and on such a place looking at those objects, of which I had read so much, and imagined more.

Signal Station ( J. M. Adye ) (See LINK) (See LINK)

Gibraltar Rock and Stone - From the Serjeant of Artillery stationed we purchased several ornaments, made of Gibraltar stone, or “Gibraltar Water,” as it is called, from the quantity of that fluid it is said to contain. This stone is very porous and takes on a high polish. On some occasional pieces are met with, representing trees, houses, &c., but they are difficult to be procured except at an extravagant rate. Ornaments of all sorts, as seals, hearts, cannon, inkstands, etc are made of it - and the sale of these, adds materially to the little pittance of the soldiers.

Objects possibly carved out of 'Gibraltar water' by a local craftsman and given to Prince of Wales in 1859

After some time we descended to the Town, and dined at the Commercial Hotel, kept by Mr Brown from Ayr, where two of his sons are at present. Indeed I met with my countrymen everywhere here, and particularly with Mr Walker, from Dunbar, who has been about 20, or 30 years and yet as broad Scotch, as if he had quitted his “ain, his Native hame.”

At sunset just as the gates were about to be shut, we repaired on board, much gratified with what we had seen today and only regretting that we had found it impossible to get admittance to the excavations, as they are called. These extend a long way thro’ the rock, and port holes have been opened in them, to allow artillery to be placed in them. When we return we shall make a further effort to see these -the greatest curiosity in Gibraltar. (See LINK)

The Isolation Hospital just below a cliff with some of the Gallery embrasures ( Late 19th century )

Mr Michael Power - Passenger - We had only one passenger from Falmouth, a Mr Michael Power, whom we left at Gibraltar. He was a man, who had no peculiarity of appearance or manners to distinguish him particularly. He was a merchant, and had resided in Spain for 23 years - he seemed to be a gentleman of good plain common sense - possessed of much general information and yet strangely bigoted to certain ideas of his own, respecting religion . . .

Apart from these opinions, his conversation was pleasing and interesting – and he used to boast much of an infallible remedy which he had discovered for the cure of the fever, which had raged so long at Gibraltar. And a simple enough remedy it was, being nothing else, than the third of a tumbler of Salad oil, which produced vomiting and removed the disease at once. This happy consequence Mr Power attributed not so much to the unloading of the stomach, as to the oil possessing a peculiar power of expelling “vz et amius,” the whole poison of the fever, which lay in the system.

Leaving Gibraltar - At twelve o'clock, having received the Mail on board, we left Gibraltar, with a fresh breeze, nearly in our favour – Weather cloudy but fair.

Second Visit - March 1829

Arrival - As was to be expected, an air of greater bustle and activity than when we were here last, prevailed - the streets were more crowded, and everything wore a different appearance. . . . We experienced much civility, indeed from the above mentioned gentleman, Mr Quentin Brown. . . He has a large general store House, where our Steward etc were supplied, and he also keeps the “commercial” Inn, which is large, airy, and very commodious.

Algeciras - I like Gibraltar more & more every day - and I am astonished at myself, that I did not fully discover those beauties, which now forcibly attract my attention and admiration. The Western extremity of the Bay is Cabrita Point, and at some distance to the Northward of it, is the Spanish Town of Algesiras, which appears to be pretty large, but not very handsome.

Here in the summer time, fine bulls fights are exhibited, the peculiar feature & disgrace of Spanish and Portuguese manners. At these shows, the ladies are invariably spectators and display the most indelicate and unfeminine signs of pleasure, when the poor animal is successfully tormented by the matador - forming as it were, and anomaly in the female character, when we see that sex whose characteristics ought to be gentleness and mercy, acting on the contrary, as if the greater amount of pain was a proportional addition to their delight.

Williamson then agrees that it is a bit hypocritical to criticise the Spanish for bullfighting 'when our cock-fights - and pugilistic contests are to the full as cruel and disgraceful to the English nation'. His counterargument is that no English woman would be seen dead at these events.

The Bull Ring - Algeciras ( 1891 - Joseph Crawhall )

San Roque - It is of a much less size than either Algesiras or Gibraltar, and might rather be termed a large village than a Town. Its position is its chief advantage, and it naturally attracts the great attention of those entering the Bay for the first time. To the Southward of this Town, the ground is high, and after a short distance, suddenly sinks down into a sandy plain, which is continued as far as the Rock. Part of this level space, is, as I mentioned before, called the “neutral ground.”

When Williamson's ship finally left the Bay for Malta, They were fired upon by the a gun from Gibraltar. The Captain had lowered his flag too soon.

Third Visit - January 1830

In a very short time the Quarantine boat came alongside and admitted us to practique – the Captain went on shore with the Main accompanied by some four passengers . . . (come) with us from England, three military officers . . in conjunction with a Captn of the Rifle Brigade, and the Earl of Rothes Lieut. in the 7 Fusiliers . . During the whole passage cock fighting was the order of the day – being occasionally interspersed with battles between two dogs on board or with sending them to annoy the ducks & hens . . . kept us all alive by their prigs and their pranks.

. . during dinner jokes and laughter were bandied about - the conversation was frequently indecorous and improper - and hardly a single sentence was uttered without being interlarded with oaths both deep and loud – and all this was said in a manner very different from the rough hearty swearing of a Jack Tar – and with a sangfroid and an air, which was designed to mark the polished gentleman and officer.

Williamson, it would seem was either a chauvinist or a snob - or both - and very selective of who merited criticism and did not. But then this was an age when most people from Britain probably thought just like he did.

. . . . it was too late, go on shore, but contented myself with refreshing my memory and recollection of scenes which I had seen but a year before. One thing struck me this time which had not done so before, and that was, that almost all the houses were painted in a different colour, which communicated, to the Town, a grotesque and motley appearance, some were green - some yellow - some white - some blue . . . .

Governor's Cottage near Europa Point (1849 )

. . . today the weather being very fine I went on shore, and visited all the localities which I knew. Among other places I strolled as far as Europa Point and before arriving there, I had a complete view of the great strength of the Rock; forever supposing the enemy to be master of one or more parts, there are still numerous fortifications, which commanded everywhere below them. Everything even to the minutest particular seemed to be in the most perfect order.

I returned on board much delighted with the manner in which I had spent the day, just a few minutes before the signal gun fired and the gates were shut.

I had almost forgot to mention that we brought along with the above a black boy, who was to appear as an important witness in a trial for Piracy at Gibraltar. . . . The general subject of conversation with everyone was the trial, which is to take place today of the man, who had acted as the Captain of those pirates, who had been executed at Cadiz. It appeared from what I heard that the Black boy, whom we had brought with us, had been formerly the servant of this very person, and was thought to be one of the most decisive evidences against him.

The pirate in question was Benito Soto. (See LINK) He was found guilty and duly hanged.

The Pirate Benito de Soto (1830 - Unknown )

Fourth Visit - March 1830

The Weather all day was such that none of us could land . . The wind came from the eastward in fitful gusts with tremendous force – and is what is called a Levanter, because it blows from the Levant. Under its influence the whole Bay was covered with white curling waves . . . produced such an agitation in the water that it ascended to an immense height in the form of spray. . . .In such an insecure and open anchorage as the Bay of Gibraltar is, and amidst such an uproar, it could hardly be expected that no accident would occur.

Williamson then goes on to write about a Spanish boat that ran into trouble and required assistance. Although Williamson does not describe the rescued mariners as smugglers this is almost certainly what they were. (See LINK)

We were an hour longer in landing, than we would have taken, had the sea been smooth – and besides that we took in no inconsiderable quantity of water. After going with the Commander to the house of Mr Henry, the American Consul here, (see LINK) I left him at last at his Hotel near the Exchange.

The Hotel was probably the King's Hotel on the corner with Main Street. The American Consol was Bernard Henry. He would soon be cashiered for having spent too much time abroad - in fact he had more or less resided in England for most of his time he was supposed to have been consol in Gibraltar and had never bothered to notify his bosses. Reading between the lines Mr. Henry - appropriately - wasn't in Gibraltar at the time of Williamson's visit. It was Mrs Henry who made the arrangements for his much anticipated visit to the galleries - which he then describes at length.

Inside the Galleries - St. George's Hall (1840s - H. E. Allen ) (See LINK)

But we will leave him among the cannons and the embrasures and recognise that the above forms part of an interesting and informative account from an unexpected source. The diaries have never been published in book form because of their sheer size and one must acknowledge yet again the labour of love taken on by Tony Pawlyn in transcribing them. They are an important addition to our knowledge of not just early 19th century Gibraltar but that of many other places - as well as of life in general aboard a packet ship.

1950 - The Mansell Collection - Unknown Photographers

The Mansell Collection was a commercial London Picture Archive with literally millions of photographs and pictures by well know artists. In the late 20th century the collection was purchased by the Time Inc. Picture Collection and transferred from London to New York.

Since then the photos seem to have been passed on to other digital collections such as Getty Images and Life Magazine and it is from these that the photos below depicting scenes from Gibraltar have been uploaded. Unfortunately the names of the actual photographers and the dates when the photos were taken are unknown - at least to me.

Water carriers or 'Aguadores' with their typical small wooden water barrels hanging about in Governor's Parade. The Building top right is the Garrison Library. (See LINK) The steps and alley in the background is Library Ramp - known locally as 'el Balali' - Ball Alley as the Library once boasted a raquets course in its premises

Vegetable or charcoal vendor and donkey in front of the Royal Artillery Barracks taken just across the Parade where the previous picture was taken. Governor's Parade was once known as Gunner's Parade because of this Barracks