My family were one of the luckier ones. We returned home in 1945 after having been evacuated to Madeira for the duration of WW II (see LINK) - which was pretty good going compared to others. The photograph below is an attempt to show the Rock as it may have appeared to me all those years ago as the bus brought us finally back home from Madeira via Lisbon. A mysterious unknown it took me a while as an eight year old to adjust to my new environment. I had heard a lot about the Rock from my family but it was all strange and new to me.
Among the many childhood and later teenage memories of that long-ago Gibraltar, were its two "boulevards" both of them relatively near to each other, one of them practically next door to our home in 256 Main Street. (See LINK) I doubt whether either of them ever qualified as boulevards. According to the OED "a boulevard is a wide street in a town or city, typically one lined with trees”. Neither of them were “wide streets” and one of them could hardly have been described as having been lined with trees.
Main Street looking south - 256 where I was born, was the narrow house just to the right of the one with the elegant balcony which stood more or less on the corner with Cathedral Square perhaps 100 meters from the southern boulevard
The Northern Boulevard
The one to the north had come into existence in 1921 when the Governor of the day General Horace Smith-Dorrien - for reasons of which I am not entirely sure of - ordered that the height of a section of the old defensive Line Wall be lowered to street level and that a "promenade" be created there forthwith.
Horace Smith-Dorrien
The place chosen happened to be more or less in the middle of town and just behind an imposing building - imposing by Gibraltar standards that is - known as Connaught House.
Connaught House before and after the boulevard had been built - In the 1880s photo at the top, four people on the right can be seen looking seaward over the original defensive Line Wall - In the bottom early 20th century photo the white roadside balustrade of the new promenade can be seen to the left of the car
Connaught House had been built in 1815 by Aaron Cardozo - a wealthy local businessman - and had been sold in 1875 to Pablo Antonio Larios, an even more well-off Gibraltar-born banker with strong local and Campo area connections and – perhaps more importantly – the father of Pablo Larios, who eventually became the long-time Master of the Calpe Hunt perhaps the next best thing during the late 19th and early 20th century to being God Almighty in British Gibraltar.
Pablo Larios - Master of the Calpe Hunt (1891)
The Duke of Connaught (1870)
Not that I was at all aware of what the place was called during the time in which I lived in Gibraltar, nor had I ever heard of Aaron Cardozo, the Duke of Connaught, or the Larios family.
In 1920 the building was sold to the Colonial Government and was rather ignominiously downgraded to a Parcel Post Office - which is what it was when just across the road a series of steps were also created more or less in the middle of the brand new promenade joining it to the Reclamation Road which ran just below it.
Smith-Dorrien's "boulevard" looking north - Steps below the statue led to Reclamation Road which is shown at a lower level on the left - It was so called because it was land that had been reclaimed from the sea just below the Line Wall
In 1923 the promenade and its steps were graced by the addition of a WW I memorial - a statue of two soldiers, one of them holding aloft a victory wreath. The base of the pedestal had a plaque commemorating the names of the thirteen Gibraltarians who died during this war. It had been commissioned in 1922 from the sculptor José Piquet Catoli. Local wags suggested that the "Spaniard" Piquet, had used a bullfighter as a model for the pose adopted by one of the soldiers. But probably not, as Piquet was actually Catalan.
Olé!! (1922 - José Piquet Catoli)
The unveiling of the WW I Memorial by the Governor Charles Monro in the presence of army and navy representatives and several top-hatted civilian worthies
Monro, incidentally is mentioned in a military site as being so successful as Governor of Gibraltar:
. . . that the Chamber of Commerce even petitioned the Secretary of State for an extension of his five year term of office, but this was unfortunately refused.
As I can find hardly a mention of him anywhere – several important general history books don’t mention him at all - I can only guess that his popularity with Gibraltarians was mostly based on the fact that he tended not to bother them and they felt no need to bother him.
By the late 1950s I had got to know Cardozo’s building somewhat more intimately. Since 1924, it had become the local City Hall. By now the years appear to have taken their toll and the building seems to have lost much of its original charm. Part of it was being used as a telephone exchange for international calls, billing being processed by clerks on the second floor. I worked there for a while when I was a teenager.
The City Hall, as I knew it
By now, the promenade had become known officially as the "Esplanade" - another unfortunate choice as there were several other places in Gibraltar that were or had been known by that name. Gibraltar's Grand Casemates Square, John Mackintosh Square, Governor's Parade and the old Alameda Grand Parade were all known as "the Esplanade" at one time or the other.
Later it was often referred to as the Line Wall Bulevard - also unhelpful as the second one towards the south had also been part of the same Line Wall and had already been in existence for six years.
The Esplanade and Line Wall Boulevard - but NOT the "Line wael Promenade" - obviously a typo - The postcard was published by the Sacarello family who were related to ours
Some say that the palm trees that line the center of the boulevard were planted in the 1930’s - but I suspect the planting occurred rather earlier than that. Whatever the case it soon allowed the locals to come up with a more suitable name - “El bulevá de las Palmeras” - a name that stuck and generally took over from all other previous versions becoming yet another addition to the increasing vocabulary of the local patois or Llanito. (See LINK)
The oldest photograph I have of the “Bulevá de las Palmeras”. It shows a small triangular section with two of its palm trees and a west facing balustrade - The view is towards the harbour with King’s Bastion on the left - by then converted into a power station - The small dry dock No. 4 is on the right - The garden below the boulevard would soon become part of Naval Football Ground No 1
As far as I can remember I very rarely played in the Buleva de las Palmeras in my pre-teenage years - and neither did any of my friends although we often passed by it or used the steps in front of the WW I memorial to get to Reclamation Road. It was very popular with mothers and their babies, as well as with those interested in its view of the harbour or as a good place to view anything going on the sports ground just below it.
Looking south - popular with mums and their babies (1950s)
Spectators on the Bulevá de las Palmeras watching fleet football matches played on the Naval Ground No 1 (1937 )
School football was played in the Naval Ground No 2, which was just south of No 1, whereas cricket was the preserve of Naval Ground No 1.
School cricket was played here during the summer holidays - local adult matches, however, were rare as I can't remember ever see one being played, although I am certain that the military must have indulged now-and-again
A rare photo showing both Naval grounds with the old Line Wall stretching across the middle, Naval Ground No 1 on the left - City Hall with the War memorial statue just visible
above No 2 on the right
It was also possible to get to the Naval Trust Cinema - to the north - via the Reclamation Road - and going to the Naval Trust was usually a three times a week event for me in those days.
The Naval Trust Cinema - front, car park and inside
The Southern Boulevard
Curiously it was the other older Boulevard that my young friends and I enjoyed most and visited more often. Unlike the Bulevá de las Palmeras, the Line Wall had not been lowered which meant that the drop on to what had once been the sea was very impressive.
In the 1950’s this gave on to what we all called “el Enopy” - the NOP or Naval Officers Pavilion. It was in fact yet another sports ground similar to the one found in front of the other boulevard.
A hockey match being played on the NOP - The southern Boulevard had not yet been created, but that impressive defensive sea wall would remain more or less as it appears on this photograph
The reason that this section of the Wall had not been lowered was that the area had simply been handed over lock stock and barrel to the local authorities - in the shape of the Sanitary Commission - by General Sir Herbert Miles the Governor at the time. They probably didn’t have at their disposable the kind of ready cash required for such a project - easily available to a Governor but not to the local authorities.
For some reason we always played our school hockey on this ground. In those days there was no way one could get from the boulevard to the NOP ground. Later a rickety and rather dangerous looking stairway was built leading down to it. Thankfully I had left Gibraltar for good before that.
The promenade appears on a photograph in the 1945 Gibraltar Directory - although the photo itself was probably taken long before 1945. Its official name was Sir Herbert Miles Promenade - a name that most modern locals would have difficulty associating with the place.
Sir Herbert Miles Promenade looking north (1945 Gibraltar Directory)
Finding discarded pieces of ordnance all over the place was very much a feature of Gibraltar for many years, although I must admit I never actually noticed this much myself. An important fortress town owned by a well-off imperial power habitually upgraded its weaponry and the British army seems to have had a tendency to leave all the obsolete stuff lying around - particulary if it was horrendously heavy to shift.
Some military team or other photographed in 1905 on the southern end of the section of the Line Wall before it was handed over to the local authorities in 1915
Local young ladies having their photograph taken in the 1920s in the southern part of the relatively recently inaugurated Promenade not all that far from where the 1905 photo above was taken.
By the 1950s Mile's Promenade had become known by almost all the locals as either "La Muralla" - a reference to the sheer drop from the Line Wall on its western side - or "El Bulevá Hebreo" because the Nefutsot Yehuda or Flemish Synagogue was on the opposite side of the northern end of the Bulevá at No 65 Line Wall Road.
The Flemish Synagogue with its impressive palm tree ( 20th century postcard )
Most of the southern end of the Bulevá Hebreo faced the Hotel Bristol on the other side of Line Wall Road.
The Bristol Hotel - The lady with the pram was almost certainly taking her children to the Bulevá (Early 20th century)
A good view of almost the entire Bulevá Hebreo on the occasion of the funeral of a colonel murdered by one of his lieutenants - not an everyday occurrence in Gibraltar, but that is another story
On the above phograph, note the lack of a balustrade and the rather dangerous drop. Unlike the southern boulevard the Line Wall had never been lowered (1927 )
Line Wall Road looking south - the Bulevá Hebreo can be seen at the very end of the road, the palm tree is that of the Synagogue
Line Wall House
South east of the Bulevá was Cathedral Square, once upon a time an open space known as Columbine Street. It had been so named in honour of an interim 1739 Governor of Gibraltar known as Francis Columbine, (see LINK) a man who hardly did anything at all while he was in charge of the Rock to warrant having anything on it named after him.
Francis Columbine, his wife and a parrot
In an article on 18th century governors of Gibraltar in the Gibraltar Heritage Journal No.10, our well-known local historian Tito Benady had this to say about Columbine.
It was Columbine’s fate through life to be imposed on by others. When he tried to emulate his commander-in-chief by having his portrait painted, his wife, a determined looking lady, installed herself in the centre of the picture, leaving Francis standing apologetically at one side.
As regards the parrot . . . no idea.
By 1828 the Protestant Cathedral of the Holy Trinity was completed (see LINK) occupying most of the Columbine Street area. The bit that was left over - in essence a more or less semi-circular street connecting Main Street with Line Wall Road - was named Cathedral Square thus relegating old Columbine to oblivion.
Photo of the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity taken from the Bulevá Hebreo
( Early 20th century )
Another view of the Cathedral from the Bulevá taken from a different angle
( Early 20th century )
On the south eastern side of Cathedral Square and overlooked by the Boulevard was a largish complex which was originally known as Line Wall House. The original building probably dated from the mid 18th century but was destroyed during the Great Siege. (See LINK) Rebuilt, it was in use as the head-quarters of the Commanding Officer of the 5th Fusiliers and as an Officers’ Mess in 1833 - when it then burned to the ground. Not exactly the luckiest of places.
By 1838 it was rebuilt for the second time and the brand-new quarters were put at the disposal of Prince George of Cambridge who had recently arrived on the Rock. He was a colonel in the British army and had been sent over to take up what was supposed to be an important position at Staff Head Quarters.
Prince George was a man who had hardly distinguished himself either as a leader or indeed in military affairs but as usually happened with Royalty - he was soon promoted to general and then field-marshal ending up as Commander-in-Chief of the British Army.
During his stay in Gibraltar, he is reputed to have spent most of his time patronising "the Sports of Calpe" which, as a contemporary fellow officer once wrote, 'he always found time to do in spite of being arduously engaged in learning the details of his profession.’
His most memorable contribution during his stay was arriving late for a Hunt meeting. His greeting to the patiently waiting huntsmen has been immortalised in the Sporting Magazine - ‘I’m devilishly glad I’ve caught you” - he is reputed to have said “so fire away.”
Prince George of Cambridge - "Arduously engaged in learning"
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The Protestant Cathedral is on the left while the building that appears in the centre of the picture is Line Wall House which was Prince George's home from home while slumming it on the Rock. Hidden away behind it . . . eventually . . . el Bulevá Hebreo
Plaque outside the building originally known as Line Wall House
Later the place was used as the quarters of the G.O.C Infantry and up to 1930 as headquarters of the Royal Artillery. According to Gordon Fergusson writing in 1970 (see LINK) it had also been known as Artillery House and many years later as Fortress Headquarters.
On the right, the section of the Wall that would eventually become Mile’s Promenade - The house in the middle of the picture is named by the photographer as “The Brigadier’s House” (1866 - Charles Lygon Sommer Cocks ) (See LINK)
The building eventually became part of the Government Secretariat. Today it is rather appropriately used as a children's playground. According to an article by the Gibraltar Museum, the building - and I am unsure as to which part of it is still extant - has had its name changed yet again - that's Gibraltar all over for you. It is now known as the Duke of Kent’s House who was - according to the Museum article - its most famous tenant. Might I suggest the word "infamous" rather than "famous"?
A view of Line Wall House while it was still being used as Fortress Headquarters taken from the Bulevá ( 1950’s )
A second plaque outside the building originally known as Line Wall House - Para que no digan - as they say - or once said - in Gibraltar
In 1802, The Duke of Kent, Queen Victoria’s eventual father, was famously and disastrously appointed Governor. For various reasons he decided to take up residence at Line Wall House. The Covent had been badly damaged during the Great Siege and was a notoriously chilly and uncomfortable place at the time.
Kent and his mistress Alfonsine, Baronesse de Fortisson Alphonsine
Alfonsine sometimes joined him at Line Wall House - that is, when she wasn't at the Duke of Kent's Farm in Spain where she spent most most of her time.
Pablo Larios and two of his employees - Duke of Kent's Farm in the background - Pablo was the owner of the Farm which he generously let the Duke and Alfonsine make use of during the Duke's stint as Governor
This endlessly renamed and royally reused Line Wall House incidentally, is or was, supposedly haunted. Apparently people who walked through its corridors were often pushed violently by an invisible force. The most commonly offered explanation is that the pusher is the ghost of a soldier who worked for the Duke in 1802 - but fails to explain the reason for the his unpleasant pushing habits.
But neither ghosts nor Governors nor the constantly changing names for buildings and squares form any part of my memories of Gibraltar’s two boulevards In the early 1950s. playing conventional games such as "los mebli" (marbles), “hide-and-seek” and “catch” and others were the order of the day in the Bulevá Hebreo, and the use of the politically unacceptable “Eeny, Meeny, Miny, Moe” - usually preceded by a downward movement of the hand and the word “plong” - were constantly and innocently used to find out who was going to be the next person who was going to be “it” or whatever.
El Bulevá de las Palmeras in the early 21st century
“The past”, as L.P. Hartley once wrote, “is a foreign country: they do things differently there . . ." Not for me it isn't - but it certainly will be for younger generations of Gibratarians.